Location: 3455 S. Overland Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90034. 310.836.6252
Date: August 13, 2011
Rating: Awesome
I first went to the amazing Omakase only N/Naka just three weeks ago, but seeing my review, my Foodie Club partner EP desperately wanted to go again. So we did. Now bear in mind that this lovely restaurant has only a set menu (they offer it in two sizes, plus vegetarian) but the talented young chef Ms. Niki Nakayama concocted a whole new menu (just three weeks later!) without a single repeat — and it was even better!
We start off our wines with a light Spanish white. Parker 90. “A candidate for top Albarino of my Spanish tastings, the 2005 Bodegas Don Olegario is medium gold with honey and apricot aromas and flavors. On the palate the wine is viscous with enough acidity to hold things together. Very Condrieu-like at about half the price.”
Saki zuke
(a pairing of something common and something unique)
Chef’s garden eggplant puree, scottish smoked salmon, osetra caviar
Crème fraiche, chives
This opening course had a wonderful silky mouthfeel and tasted of smoked eggplant, a bit like baba ganush.
Zensai
(Main seasonal ingredient presented as an appetizer)
Japan ayu, pacific lobster roll, nanohana, daikon and kanpachi, lotus
Root kinpira
Zooming in, the Japanese Ayu. This is a smelt relative known as sweetfish. It was crispy and grilled. Alongside are cubes of watermelon and aged balsamic. The combo was lovely.
This is the lobster roll. Kind of like a piece of uber california maki.
A bit of diakon with either eel or kanpachi inside, not 100% sure. The little tomato is from chef Niki’s garden (as are many things in the meal).
Nanohana, a kind of broccoli rabe.
Lotus root kippira. Slightly sweet with a bit of crunch.
This is an alternative form of the dish for my wife who doesn’t eat shellfish or meat. You can see the lobster is replaced with a bit of seared Toro! N/Naka requires that you specify which menu and dietary restrictions a few days in advance, but they are very adept at customizing the menu.
Now stepping up to this killer California Chardonnay, Parker 95! This one is from EP’s cellar. “The Chardonnay Belle Cote is always a more exotic wine. There are 2,200 cases of the 2005 Chardonnay Belle Cote, a wine with undeniable notes of crushed stones, white peach, orange, nectarine, and quince. Medium to full-bodied, with zesty acidity, stunning minerality, and a firm structure, this is a gorgeous, French-styled Chardonnay that should drink nicely for up to a decade.”
Modern zukuri
(modern interpretation of sashimi)
Japan bonito, marinated onions, ponzu, myoga, shiso, shiso air, ginger
A lovely bit of bonito. And not only do I love shiso, but I get to try it as “air!” Although the real shiso had a bit more flavor punch than the airy form.
Fantastic containers add to the fun.
Owan “still water”
Black cod and shiitake, green tea soba, nameko mushrooms, dashi broth
This is one of those mild, but lovely, Japanese soups. With a vaguely sweet, soft mushroomy fishy taste. Very pleasant and soothing.
Sake- shichida, sago japan. This is an ultra-ultra rare sake I had the previous time and it blew away the entire table (except for the 6 year-old who was left out!) One of the best sakes I’ve ever had. Each grain of rice is hand shaved before brewing!
Otsukuri
(Traditional Sashimi )
Big eye otoro, shima aji , sea bream, santa barbara sweet shrimp,
Kumamoto oyster
Zoom into the bucket, where you can see the shima aji , sea bream, santa barbara sweet shrimp.
And then over here, past the hand ground wasabi, to the Big eye otoro and Kumamoto oyster. The Toro (o-toro is the most premium Toro) was absolutely amazing.
An alternative basket my wife received. She has hamachi belly and scottish salmon instead of the shellfish.
To pair with the upcoming lobster, this Parker 90 white from Alto Adige in Northern Italy. “The 2008 Muller Thurgau literally sparkles on the palate with well-articulated aromas and flavors that come together with notable harmony. The finish is subtle and nuanced in its suggestions of mint, flowers, lime and passion fruit. This polished white also happens to be a terrific value. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012.”
Yakimono
Pacific lobster, maitake, enringi, tamale sauce
This was a wonderful dish, and the pairing (recommended by the sommelier) with the crisp white was delightful.
My wife had to tough it out with this fish alternative, topped with a bit of dynamite.
Another lovely container, opening to reveal:
Mushimono
Unagi and gobo chawanmushi, frozen foie gras torchon powder
On the left a traditional Japanese custard with mushrooms. On the right frozen foie gras powder! This second item was sprinkled into the custard to add killer meaty umph! Really nice interplay of textures and fats.
Shiizakana
(Not bound by tradition, the chef’s choice dish to be paired with wine)
Abalone pasta, pickeled cod roe, abalone liver sauce
I had this pasta on my previous visit, but knowing this, Chef Niki gave me a different one! (below) Still, this one was amazing (or so I remember and so the rest of the party said).
Chef’s garden kabocha ravioli with truffles, brown butter sage, manchego
My wife received this dish, perfectly in sync with her taste. It was gone in about a millisecond.
Spaghetti with uni, ikura, poached eggs, seaweed, truffle
I got this, which was also delicious, tasting strongly of uni and the briny bright tone and texture of the ikura — two sushis often paired together and two of my favorites. Yum. This kind of interesting east/west fusion is very unusual, and brilliant.
As we move into the meatier portion of the menu, this 94 point Burgundy. “The Chevillon 2008 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains projects an amazing sense of deep, dark concentration. Latakia tobacco; peat; rushed stone; roasted red meats; soy; and ripe, fresh blackberry inform the nose and absolutely stain the palate. The tannins here are as ultra-fine as they are formidable, and the tug on my salivary glands as relentless as are the finishing flavors. If this doesn’t leave you reaching for a napkin or your lips fluttering, probably no wine will. The energy and salinity here render a wine that you feel as if you must strain through your teeth nonetheless fleet-of-foot, enticing, and invigorating.”
Niku
Snake river farms kobe beef ishiyaki
Plus butter cubes and sisho peppers.
Then out comes a little hot rock.
You drop the butter on top, then the meat and cook to your taste. Like a mini version of Totoraku.
The non-meat substitute is baked miso cod, always a favorite.
Sunomono
Marinated halibut fin, cucumbers, ruby red grapefruit
Yuzu omoi, yuzu blend sake
The bright marinated flavors and the sweet/sour sake go perfectly together.
Shokuji One & Two
(Rice dish- sushi)
Jeju island hirame, o-toro
Aji (mackerel), hamachi belly.
Aji (mackerel) on the left. Not sure what’s on the right.
Mirugai, shinkomaki, miso hamachi, sesame butter chazuke.
And the other two of above, but I’m not sure which is which :-). live scallops on the left.
R.L. Buller Calliope Rare Muscat. Yum Yum! Parker 100! “Giving aromas of dark brown sugar, black strap molasses, licorice and preserved walnuts, the deeply brown colored NV Calliope Rare Muscat is again incredibly sweet and viscous with a good amount of acid to balance and is decadently rich and nutty / spicy in the very long finish. All these vintage blended fortified wines are bottled to drink now and though are stable enough to hold, they are not designed to improve with cellaring.”
Shokuji
(Rice dish)
A fish with a miso sauce on rice with seaweed.
It’s traditional to end the savories in Japan with a “rice dish.” On the left we have a very traditional bit of salmon like fish, rice, and nori. Refreshing and stomach settling. On the right were two pickles cut roll pieces. I loved these. I’m a huge Japanese pickles fan and really enjoy the crunchy vinegar thing.
Dessert
Chocolate tiramisu, ruby red grapefruit and passion fruit gelee, fruits
These were all extremely tasty. The grapefruit thing in the middle was particularly intense with a lovely gummy texture.
Kids Omakase
EP and his wife brought his young daughter with them and she got a special “kids omakase” which was very cool.
An assortment of rolls, including toro cut roll!
Ikura (salmon eggs), sweet shrimp, and bonito sushi.
Some of the best looking tempura I’ve ever seen.
Yellowtail belly sashimi. That was one lucky girl!
N/Naka really is a very special place. Both meals I had here were spectacular (here for the first). This second was, if possible, slightly better too, which was always wonderful because often one finds a slight bloom to come off a place on repeat meals. This was very much avoided by the completely new menu, which only three weeks apart was impressive. The quality of ingredients, preparation, and presentation here is pretty stunning.
Try it!
All Things Andy Gavin 